We are excited to share the 2nd installment of “The Curl”. This video focuses on the most important aspect of maintaing healthy natural hair MOISTURE RETENTION. Watch below:
Have You Joined The Movement?
“The Curl” is BACK!
Category: Moisturizing/ Conditioning
The Curl Episode 2: Porosity and The Chart!
An original web series for Carol’s Daughter’s Transitioning Movement
POROSITY AND THE CHART
DESCRIPTION:
You’ve heard these words before, but what does porosity really mean, especially when it comes to your hair’s strength, health and ability to retain moisture? In this episode of The Curl, we break down the real meaning of the word while some of your favorite natural hair bloggers, including Fran of Hey Fran Hey, Cipriana of Urban Bush Babes, and Shanti & Antoinette of Around the Way Curls, share their candid and often hilarious hair stories. Also, you’ll hear tips on the best hair products for natural and all hair types. To repair your hair and end hair damage, you need to know your hair’s porosity.
Have You Joined the Movement?
Porosity Check. Low Porosity Hair Treatments
The summer sun wreaks havoc on my hair color giving me red, orange and even sometimes purplish hues in my hair. So, I recently got my hair colored again at Aveda. The color was nothing drastic… just a nice chocolate brown for the winter. Anyway, I am always nervous about chemical damage when getting my hair dyed (even though Aveda uses mostly plant based products) so I decided to do a health check by doing the porosity test.
First, do you know what porosity is? If not, click the linkhere. In my opinion knowing your hair’s porosity level is by far more important and helpful than the hair typing chart and if you don’t know what the porosity test is it goes a little something like this:
- 1. Fill a glass container with room temperature water.
- 2. Pluck a strand of clean hair from your scalp. Be sure that the hair you are using is coming directly from the scalp and is not a strand that broke off from your hair shaft.
- 3. Place the strand of hair in the water.
If your hair floats you have low porosity hair. Meaning, your cuticles are compact and somewhat closed. This makes it difficult for moisture to penetrate your hair shaft but once it does penetrate it is easily maintained
If your hair sinks to the bottom you have highly porous hair. Meaning, your cuticles are so far raised that they are wide open. Moisture easily penetrates your hair but also easily escapes it. So, you need to figure out your own best practices for sealing in moisture. (That post is to come).
If your hair chills somewhere in the middle congratulations you have normal porosity, none of this matters to you and life is easy! But keep in mind your hair’s porosity can and will change overtime so it’s a good idea to check back in every now and then.
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| Believe it or not I actually took this picture the following day and that ish was STILL floating. |
The results of the test were that my curls floated on top of that water like oil. Ugh! So, my hair has very low porosity. Meaning, it’s resistant and water does not penetrate my hair easily because my cuticles are not raised but instead are compacted. What that essentially means is that my hair repels products/moisture instead of absorbing them which can lead to dryness, product buildup and wack ass curls. BUT, the results also led me to believe that dying my hair did not cause any damage because my cuticle structure is still strong and intact. (At least that’s what I’m going to tell myself). So, there are pros and cons to this discovery.
Ways to Treat Low Porosity Hair
- Steam is a gentle way to lift compact cuticles and send moisture inside your hair shaft. If you don’t have a hair steamer then turn the shower on and sit in the bathroom while it fogs up. Add a deep conditioner to your hair while you steam for added moisture.
- Add some heat! I have sad this time and time again. My diffuser mixed with my leave-in conditioner are the best things that have ever happened to me. The heat much like the steamer, lifts my cuticles and allows moisture to penetrate my hair to penetrate. The diffuser also helps to protect my hair as it distributes heat and airflow more evenly than a regular hair dryer.
- The use of baking soda is something that some people are still on the fence about while others profess their love for it. I’ll keep it simple baking soda is alkaline and because of that lifts the hair’s cuticle. Many low porosity naturals add it to their conditioner during co-washes and such. Be sure to rinse it out thoroughly and then use something acidic to reseal your cuticles like aloe vera juice or and ACV Rinse.
- Don’t go HAM with protein treatments. You’re hair is already compact with protein so adding more will further seal your cuticles. Use protein only when you are noticing damage and need to rebuild some of the hair’s foundation.
So, it was time to get the good ol’ Huetiful Hair Steamer out, lift up these cuticles and pump some moisture into these dessert like curls.
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| Listening to that new Miguel Album & playing Adorn for the 1000th time |
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| After the steamer. |
My curl pattern is still on some irregular stuff but I’m sure with a couple of treatments I’ll be back to normal. I swear I’m going to one day try that baking soda trick but I can’t front. I’m hella nervous about adding ACV to my hair. Just the sound of it scares me.
What is your hair’s porosity and how are you treating it?
How to Ensure Healthy Ends!
With the cold weather sneaking up on us we have to be sure to take care of our ends… or snip, snap, boom… they’re dead.
How to Handle Dry Ends
We all face dry ends from time to time. Dry ends are just a symptom of a habit (or lack thereof) that needs to be modified. As the cooler weather quickly advances, I wanted to provide some tips to bringing some moisture back to your strands.You can follow one or follow the whole sha-bang to ensure optimum results.
1. Make Sure that Your Moisturizing Ritual is Solid.
If you do not know the difference between a sealant and a moisturizer than your hair’s ends probably reflect your ignorance! A moisturizer is water or a water based product (leave in conditioner). You can identify a moisturizing product by reading the ingredients on the product label.
A moisturizer will have aqua or water listed as the first ingredient. A sealant is a natural oil such as olive, jojoba, shea butter etc or (aloe vera juice/gel for finer hair that is weighed down by oil).
A moisturizer is applied first and the sealant is applied second. If you are not following this process in your hair ritual than you probably should implement it to ensure healthier more moisturized hair strands.
A moisturizer is applied first and the sealant is applied second. If you are not following this process in your hair ritual than you probably should implement it to ensure healthier more moisturized hair strands.
2. Trim your ends
Trimming your dry, damaged, frayed ends is a wonderful way to rid yourself of the hassle and unsightly appearance of your dry tresses. A simple, small trim goes a long way for overall appearance and hair health.
2. Clarify Your Scalp
Hair health begins with your scalp. If your scalp’s pores are clogged and unable to breath, you are definitely increasing your likely hood of facing dry, brittle hair. Natural hair oil/sebum comes from your hair’s pores and travels down your hair’s strand resulting in naturally moisturized hair strands. The oil distribution of curly hair is compromised due to the coiled nature of the strand so to add clogged pores on top of that is a nightmare. We all know that excessive cleansing with shampoo dries hair out but a good, clarifying cleanse AT LEAST once a month is very important in providing your scalp with an opportunity to be rid of any clogging product buildup and allowing the natural oil to be distributed.
3. Deep Condition Your Hair Weekly
When struggling with dry ends, it usually takes diligence and consistency to try and bring them back to health. Consistently try and deep condition your hair weekly. If you have the resources, change up the process. Use your steamer one week, a warm towel the next, incorporate protein or honey the next etc. You will soon see results after about a month of weekly applications.
4. Protective Styling
Leave your hair alone! The best way to ensure that your strands aren’t losing moisture is to tuck your strands away! After a thorough cleansing, deep conditioning and proper moisturizing application you should style your hair in a beautiful protective style that can be maintained for a couple days ensuring that your hands are out of your hair.
Click here for some style ideas.
Check Out Antoinette’s Tips for Fine Hair featured on the Transitioning Movement Site
Many have been asking for a fine haired regimen that works. I realized that I have yet to write and article explaining everything that I do in one post. So finally, here it is!
Learn how to cleanse, condition, seal, style and cut fine curly hair!
When we think of natural hair, what usually comes to mind are beautiful bouncy twist-outs, locs, box braids, large Afros and bountiful wash and gos. But we often forget about all the fine-haired curlies out there struggling to keep up with the #bighairdontcare hashtag. Over the years, I have really struggled to care for my hair because there wasn’t much of a reference point in the online world for those rocking their natural textures but in the thinnest way possible. But now there is. Below are some techniques that not only work for me but that I highly recommend to every fine-haired natural who is aiming for the healthiest hair possible to try.
When we think of natural hair, what usually comes to mind are beautiful bouncy twist-outs, locs, box braids, large Afros and bountiful wash and gos. But we often forget about all the fine-haired curlies out there struggling to keep up with the #bighairdontcare hashtag. Over the years, I have really struggled to care for my hair because there wasn’t much of a reference point in the online world for those rocking their natural textures but in the thinnest way possible. But now there is. Below are some techniques that not only work for me but that I highly recommend to every fine-haired natural who is aiming for the healthiest hair possible to try.
Cleansing: Often we are told that washing our hair strips our strands of moisture and that we should focus more on co-washing. Co-washing is great in conjunction with cleansing. Fine-haired women should cleanse more often to ensure that they are not suffering from product build-up, especially when using products that contain silicones. I, on average, wash my hair 1-2 times a week, depending on the amount of product build-up I feel and see.
In addition, because we wash more often, I recommend diluting your shampoo. In a spray bottle mix, one part water, one part conditioner, and one part shampoo. That way you are conditioning while you cleanse and ensuring that your hair is not being stripped of moisture. Using a sulfate-free shampoo is also highly recommended.
Hydrating: Water is your best friend. I support wetting your hair every day for two reasons. 1) Water is the ultimate moisturizer and the best form of hydration for your hair. 2) Fine hair often doesn’t achieve “second day” hair. I cannot sleep with a satin bonnet on and wake up with the same curls I did the day prior. Instead, my curls are smashed, flat and lifeless. Re-wetting my hair resets my curls.
Conditioning: Every girl with curly hair needs a good leave-in conditioner, that goes without saying. I recommend using a leave-in conditioner daily on damp hair. Also, because we cleanse more often, deep conditioning 1-2 times a week for 10-15 minutes is a must!
Sealing: Moisturizing hair is a two-step process. First applying water or a water-based product followed by a sealant. Most often, we are told to use oils or heavy creams to seal our strands, but I want you all to say, “Goodbye” to oil and say, “Hello” to Aloe Vera juice/gel! Aloe Vera is so important and crucial as a PH balancer and extremely effective when it comes to moisture retention. Simply apply after your leave-in conditioner the same way you would oil. The aloe will seal your cuticles and keep you hydrated all day long. It also will not weight your hair down.
Styling: While our fellow thick-haired natural sisters thrive off of twists and braid-outs, we don’t. We can twist our hair at night only to find that in the morning there is no twist to our twist-out. Instead, our hair lies flat, looking like an old mop. I have found that when manipulating our natural fine-haired curl pattern, that rod and roller sets work best. I will write more extensively on styling techniques for fine hair in the future.
I swear by these techniques yall.
How To Condition Your Hair While in Twists, Braids & Extensions!
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| Photo courtesy of Taren Guy |
I met Alwina Oyewoleturner a couple weeks back at the Curls Night Out Event here in NYC. She was extremely sweet and really cool. I couldn’t stop starring at her hair so I asked her to e-mail us what her regimen was for maintaining her Havana Twists and to my surprise she did it! This is a great summertime look so ladies, if your hair is thick enough it should be on your list of ‘styles to try’. I don’t think my thin strands could pull it off but that’s probably why I admired them so much.
Antoinette asked me to share what I do while my hair is in twists or braids (extensions) for an extended period of time. Currently, my hair is in Havana twists. In the last couple of years, especially since I transitioned in 2009, I keep a very simple regimen to maintain my hair in braids and the scalp clean.
I used to use SeaBreeze astringent (not the one for the face) but a more general astringent that can be used on the scalp as well as the face/body. This helps to kill any bacteria, etc. from growing especially since you can’t really wash your braids like you do your hair. And then I used to use Dr. Hobbs’ Soothing Braid/Twist Spray, which is really hard to find, on my scalp to relax the itching and also condition my scalp.
Since finding the above products has been a challenge, I’ve changed the products with the same concept in mind. I make my own mixture of Dessert Essence’s Kinder to Skin Tea Tree Oil (8%) and Thayer’s Lavender/Aloe Vera Witch Hazel with water in a spray bottle. Tea Tree Oil has antibacterial properties and the witch hazel gently cleanses, tones and moisturizes your scalp and then water for moisture. After this I spray, African Royale BRX Braid & Extension Sheen Spray, which also has tea tree oil, silk amino acids, oils/extracts, etc. to condition your hair while in twists/braids (extensions).
I generally spray my hair with both products twice a day and if not, then at least in the morning to prepare my hair to handle the environment.
If my hair is not in extensions, my regimen is slightly different. I would use the tea tree oil/witch hazel/water mix, Shea Moisture Coconut Hibiscus Hold & Shine moisture mist, Shea Moisture organic African black soap dandruff & dry scalp elixir and the raw Shea butter reconstructive elixir to seal it all in. Lately, in place of the reconstructive elixir I have been using Carol’s Daughter Tui Oil hair spray, which has a great smell.
The goal is to add water when the hair dry, cleanse an antibacterial agent, moisturize and seal with an oil.
To wash my hair with/without extensions, I use whatever shampoo or cleansing conditioner is available. Right now I am using Carol’s Daughter Monoi Hair Repair Shampoo and Loreal’s Evercream Cleansing Conditioner.
It doesn’t get more detailed than that. Her regimen explanation was the bomb. Shanti and I need to step our game up. SMH. Seriously though #BOOM! Her hair was the ish and she’s at every natural hair event in NYC so she’s well researched and in the know.
How Beautiful Are Those Havana Twists???
Porosity Testing – 1,2,3!
So I thought instead of boring “informational” posts (which I know ya’ll skim the hell through anyway), I thought it would be better to instead get you guys involved by testing how much you know about natural hair care techniques. Let’s see if you pass or fail…
Which of these three ingredients has a PH level closest to your hair’s natural PH level?
a)Apple Cider Vinegar
b)Aloe Vera Juice
c)Baking soda
The Answer is B
Hair has a PH level of 4.5-5.5. Aloe vera’s PH level is 4-4.5. Why is this important you ask? It is very important because the Ph level of your hair effects it’s moisture retention abilities aka porosity!. Our hair’s Ph level is effected by the practices and products that we apply to it. For example, for those that choose to perm their hair, the basic chemicals of the relaxer effect the Ph levels of the hair which effects the structure of the hair’s cuticle (you following me? Reread the sentence until you understand!) Ph levels range from very basic(refer to the PH scale 7-14) whichliftsthe
haircuticles to very acidic (1-7) whichcloses thehairscuticle.
Hair which is too basic results in the cuticles being raised. Water goes in and out with no retention which results in DRY, BRITTLE hair! Hair with a Ph level that is too acidic results in a closed cuticle therefore water can’t get in and products build up on the hair shaft resulting in DRY, DULL hair!
Why does aloe vera juice matter in this rambling? It matters because it is Ph Balancing. It is closest to hair’s naturally intended Ph level and can assist in re-establishing healthy moisture retention.
Lesson Learned
Ph levels affect the moisture retention of your hair. Aloe vera juice is ph balancing and can restore your hair back to its intended ph. This results in healthy moisture retention which results in less dry, breaking hair strands.
Homework
If you are interested in reviving the moisture retention mojo back in your hair follow, this fabulous recipe created by the infamous KIMMAYTUBE. Check out this awesome video if you want to further research moisture retention/porosity.
Because this recipe is fine tuned due to Ph levels you do not want to skimp or deviate from the Aloe Vera Juice. The leave in conditioner and oils can be substituted but not omitted for best results.
Hair which is too basic results in the cuticles being raised. Water goes in and out with no retention which results in DRY, BRITTLE hair! Hair with a Ph level that is too acidic results in a closed cuticle therefore water can’t get in and products build up on the hair shaft resulting in DRY, DULL hair!
Why does aloe vera juice matter in this rambling? It matters because it is Ph Balancing. It is closest to hair’s naturally intended Ph level and can assist in re-establishing healthy moisture retention.
Lesson Learned
Ph levels affect the moisture retention of your hair. Aloe vera juice is ph balancing and can restore your hair back to its intended ph. This results in healthy moisture retention which results in less dry, breaking hair strands.
Homework
If you are interested in reviving the moisture retention mojo back in your hair follow, this fabulous recipe created by the infamous KIMMAYTUBE. Check out this awesome video if you want to further research moisture retention/porosity.
Because this recipe is fine tuned due to Ph levels you do not want to skimp or deviate from the Aloe Vera Juice. The leave in conditioner and oils can be substituted but not omitted for best results.
2 tablespoons of Kinky Curly Knot Today Leave in Conditioner
2 tablespoons of Aloe Vera Juice (Whole Leaf)
2 teaspoons of JoJoba Oil
2 teaspoons of Castor Oil
Mix well and Apply to clean hair.
Mix well and Apply to clean hair.
DID YOU PASS OR FAIL????
Moisturizing Test – 1,2,3!
So I thought instead of boring “informational” posts (which I know ya’ll skim the hell through anyway), I thought it would be better to instead get you guys involved by testing how much you know about natural hair care techniques. Let’s see if you pass or fail…
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| Source |
Of the following, what is the most effective process of moisturizing your hair?
a)Apply an oil, butter, mineral or petroleum based product to your strands and scalp
b)Apply water or a water based product to hair first followed by a sealant such as oil, butter or “grease”.
b)Apply water or a water based product to hair first followed by a sealant such as oil, butter or “grease”.
c)Lightly spritz hair with water
The answer is B.
When dealing with curly or kinky textured hair it is imperative that water or a water based product (aqua as it’s first ingredient) is applied to hair first. Contrary to what you have been taught about water and hair not mixing, water is actually the only thing that can effectively hydrate and provide the moisture that our hair demands. In order to “lock” that water into your hair you must follow with a sealing product such as an oil, butter or grease (whichever you prefer). Moisturizing is a two-step process. Depending on the porosity and density of your hair strands some people may need to re-hydrate daily while others may only need to repeat the process once a week or even farther in between. Only you can discover the products and frequency with which you practice the process.
LESSON LEARNED
Moisturizing curly kinky hair is a two step process which leads with water or water based product and ends with a sealant oil or butter.
Moisturizing curly kinky hair is a two step process which leads with water or water based product and ends with a sealant oil or butter.
Note: For extremely fine and loose curls (type 2 and 3 hair types) oil and butter may be too heavy and unnecessary but water is still a must!
DID YOU PASS OR FAIL?
Top Products for Natural Hair
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| Source |
The genius people over at natreview.com conducted a survey to find out what products are considered the best in the natural hair community. Over 300 people participated and the votes are in. Favorites among the list are:
Kinky Curly Knot Today
Carol’s Daughter Healthy Hair Butter
Herbal Essence Hello Hydration
Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint Soap
Shea Butter Cantu Treatment
Jane Carter Solution Leave In Conditioner
Click here for the complete list of top shampoos, conditioner, leave-ins, moisture aids, hair tools, product lines and survey information.
What are your favorites?
